Paithani Sarees: What Is This Royal Weave All About? Know How To Identify An Original One

Originating from the ancient city of Pratishthan, now Paithan ,it was previously called 'Pratishthani', a name which has now evolved to 'Paithani'.

Paithani Sarees: All About This Royal Weave ( Image Source :Pinterest/Atharva Chandorkar )

Paithani saree, an exquisite Maharashtrian piece, is known for its opulent silk, elaborate patterns, and vibrant colours. Traditionally cherished by brides, this saree speaks both about royalty and contemporary fashion. The origin of Paithani dates back to the 2nd century BC during the Satvahana Dynasty and is a fabric once woven with pure gold alongside cotton and silk. This luxurious textile captivated everyone, even the Greco-Romans back then, who traded gold for its splendorous allure.

Originating from the ancient city of Pratishthan, now Paithan, it was previously called 'Pratishthani', a name which has now evolved to 'Paithani'. Referred to as the 'Dev vastra' or fabric of the Gods, its historical significance also holds a place in Hindu and Buddhist scriptures.

Flourishing under the patronage of the Peshwas in the 18th century, especially admired by Madhavrao Peshwa, Paithani continues to speak of royalty, embodying a timeless elegance even today.

The Royal Weave:

As an essential part of Maharashtra's culture, women wear these sarees on special occasions such as weddings and religious ceremonies. Additionally, these sarees are gaining popularity in the western and southern regions of India, as more people outside of Maharashtra appreciate their exquisite craftsmanship and cultural significance. 

Shri Balkrishna Namdev Kapse, Founder of Kapse Paithani said, "The Paithani saree is weaved using top quality silk and pure gold zari. These sarees feature detailed patterns inspired by nature, each telling stories of tradition and craftsmanship. Representing beauty, grace, and majesty, the peacock is a prominent motif in Paithani design. Taking between 6 to 24 months to create, a genuine Paithani saree weighs up to 900gms, with 500gms of silk threads and 250gms of zari intricately woven into its fabric."

 

Image Source: Pinterest/www.artisansaga.com

How You Can Identify An Original Paithani Saree:

Identifying an original Paithani saree can be tricky, but here are some tips shared by Ashita Singhal, founder of Paiwand: 

• Look for the pallu design: Hand-woven fabrics can be identified from the selvage, which typically has holes from pinning the fabric to keep it straight. The selvage is never perfectly straight and often has holes, serving as a marker for hand-woven fabrics. Authentic Paithani sarees have unique pallu designs that are handwoven with precision and detail.
• Check the borders: Original Paithani sarees have intricately woven borders with motifs that are characteristic of the region. Hand-woven pieces exhibit clear motifs on both the front and back, indicating their authenticity.
• Look for imperfections: Look for imperfections rather than perfection when identifying hand-woven items. Original Paithani Sarees are dual in nature, with one colour for the weft and another for the warp. 
• Inspect the Fabric: When exposed to light, these sarees reflect different colours and patterns from various angles, aiding in their identification. Original Paithani Sarees are dual in nature, with one colour for the weft and another for the warp.
• Examine the Zari Work: Genuine Paithani sarees feature intricate zari work, which is done using real gold or silver threads.

Evolution Of Paithani Sarees Over Time:

Paithani sarees are known for their legacy, hence they are considered to be worn on special occasions like wedding, festivals etc. Sneha Yadav who is a Fashion Analyst & NIFT alumni said, "Fine mulberry silk threads woven with intricate zari work makes it more attractive and expensive at the same time."

 

Talking about the patterns and motifs that define Paithani, Sneha said, "Paithani sarees are characterised with the aid of geometric shapes, intricate motifs like buttis and ashtaks, and interlocking strains. Sometimes paisleys, peacocks, and mango shapes are also used. The designs are inspired through architectural elements from temples or palaces, reflecting the craft's rich background."

 

"Traditional sarees feature bold colours like royal crimson, emerald green, and rust orange, even as cutting-edge sarees provide a wider shade spectrum. Understanding those styles allows respect for the artistry and culture of Paithani sarees," she added.

 

With the increase in commercialisation, Paithani sarees, too, have evolved with time.

 

Sneha said, "Paithani sarees, in the beginning manufactured from cotton with silk and gold thread gildings, have advanced from a royalty to export focus. They now characterise silk borders and are geared toward a worldwide marketplace. Modern versions have larger, greater difficult borders and are reviving complex traditional patterns."