What Is Bandhani Print? Know About This Art Of Tie And Dye, And Tips To Identify A Pure Bandhani Saree

The term 'Bandhani', is derived from the Sanskrit verbal root 'bandh' which means to bind or to tie.

All about Bandhani print and sarees ( Image Source :Twitter/@nimopoornima )

Timeless and classic – sarees are a celebration of India's rich cultural heritage, weaving together the threads of tradition and craftsmanship. India boasts several weaves ranging from kanjeevaram, and bandhani to kalamkari, benarasi and many more- each showcasing its distinct beauty. Sarees are not just known to have different weaves, but also multiple ways of donning- catering to personal choice and style. 

Every region of India has its magic of handlooms with every thread telling a tale of tradition, artistry, and cultural background. Talking about 'Bandhani', the term is derived from the Sanskrit verbal root 'bandh' which means to bind or to tie. The earliest example of the most pervasive type of Bandhani dots can be seen in the 6th-century paintings depicting the life of Buddha found on the wall of the Cave at Ajanta.

What Is Bandhani Print?

The art of Bandhani involves tightly tying a fabric with threads at various points, creating diverse patterns such as Chandrakala, Bavan Baug, Shikari, and more, with specific patterns depending on how the cloth is tied. 

Explaining the process of tie and dye, Professor John Varghese, (Textile Design - School of Fashion) at World University of Design, Sonipat says: "Tie-dye is a textile dyeing technique that involves tying or binding sections of fabric to create patterns and designs before dying. The tied portion resists the entry of dye or prevents the dye from reaching the restricted areas, resulting in unique and colourful patterns when the fabric is dyed. Variations can be created by multiple dyeing operations where different sections of tied fabric are dyed in different colours."

Tie-dyeing can be found in various cultures worldwide, each with its specific techniques and names for the art form. Japanese tie-dye technique for example is called Shibori where artisans use different binding, stitching, folding, and compressing techniques to create intricate patterns. Similarly, the tie-dye technique practised by the Yoruba people in Nigeria is called Adire. Speaking of India, a particular tie-dye technique known as bandhani is primarily practised in the regions of Gujarat, Rajasthan, and parts of Uttar Pradesh. 

"The process of creating Bandhani involves skilled artisans meticulously tying thousands of tiny knots on the fabric using their fingers or fine needles. These knots are tied in various patterns, such as dots, squares, waves (Lehariya), or even more elaborate designs. The tying of knots creates resist points that prevent the dye from reaching certain areas of the cloth, resulting in distinct patterns after dyeing," explains Professor John Varghese.

He adds: "Once the fabric is tied with these knots, it undergoes the dyeing process. The cloth is immersed in vibrant natural or synthetic dyes, and the tied portions resist the dye, maintaining its original colour. After dyeing, the fabric is washed to remove the tied knots, revealing the intricate patterns and designs."

The primary colours used in Bandhani are yellow, red, blue, green, and black and each colour is traditionally associated with specific cultural meanings. Red symbolises marriage and is linked to the rituals of married women, yellow represents spring and is associated with both the season and childbirth, saffron signifies the renunciation of the world and connects with warriors prepared to sacrifice their lives in battle or yogis who abandon worldly life, while black and maroon are used in times of mourning.

What Are Bandhani Sarees?

Bandhani sarees are an exquisite form of traditional Indian clothing that is vibrant, captivating, and brimming with elegance. Crafted from breathable fabrics featuring lively colours, Bandhani sarees are the perfect companion for all occasions. Being an ancient art form that signifies India’s rich cultural heritage, Bandhani sarees are an incredible way to embrace one’s cultural identity. 

Sumit Arora, chief of ethnic apparel, Fabindia says: "A mix of folk and contemporary- Bandhani sarees are a canvas of artistry, meticulously made by the traditional 'Tie-Dyeing' method to create intricate patterns, making each sari a unique masterpiece. From vibrant silk to vivid cottons and vivacious georgettes, a Bandhej or Bandhani saree is a long-lasting love that will never go out of style, no matter the era!"

How To Identify A Pure Bandhani Saree?

With the rising demand for traditional Bandhani sarees and markets being filled with low-cost, low-quality sarees, chances are you might pick the wrong one. Here are some factors mentioned by Parul Chanana, Senior Marketing Manager, Libas, that distinguish a good Bandhani saree from the rest- 

• The quality of the fabric: A good Bandhani saree often uses high-quality, breathable, and durable fabrics such as cotton, silk, georgette, etc. 
• Colour Fastness: Another important factor is that the colours used to dye don’t fade easily, even after several washes. 
• Uniform distribution of dye: A good saree will not have an uneven distribution of dye, patches, or blotches on the fabric.

Bandhani sarees are known for their vibrant colours, intricate patterns, and exquisite designs. The technique allows for a wide range of designs, from small and delicate motifs to larger, more elaborate patterns. These sarees are often adorned for special occasions, festivals, weddings, and cultural celebrations, showcasing the rich heritage and craftsmanship of India.

The significance of Bandhani goes beyond its aesthetic appeal; it holds cultural and social importance in various communities. It's not just limited to sarees but is also used in creating other garments like salwar kameez, dupattas, turbans (pagris), and accessories, making it a versatile and cherished textile art form in Indian fashion and culture.