One of the apples of Mumbaikars' eyes for their weekend escapades and holiday season is the tiny, neighbouring state of Goa. The picturesque state, adorned with countless pristine and captivating beaches, lures a multitude of tourists each year, filling the state's coffers. However, unbeknownst to many, a miniature Goa is tucked away within Mumbai itself. Manori Island, nestled on Mumbai's western coastline, exudes the exact vibe of Goa.
The joyful song, "Chowpatty jayenge, ne bhelpuri khayenge...", featuring the late actor Rishi Kapoor from 'Phool Khile Hain Gulshan Gulsahan' showcases Girgaon Chowpatty in south Mumbai. Situated on the coast of the Arabian Sea, Mumbai boasts of a plethora of beaches such as Girgaon, Dadar, and Juhu chowpatties, Madh, Erangal, Aksa, and Gorai. During weekends, hordes of locals and tourists flock to these places. However, Manori Beach, located on the northwestern coastline, stands apart.
What sets Manori Beach apart is its accessibility. It's no piece of cake to reach Manori like the other beaches in the city. If you reside south of Bandra or Kurla, it would take a two to three-hour drive to reach the place, even though it falls within the municipal limits of Mumbai. One must travel all the way to Mira-Bhayandar to access it. Another option is to reach the Marve or Gorai jetties and take a motorboat to the island.
The BEST (Brihanmumbai Electric Supply and Transport) has been serving Mumbaikars with bus routes, and until half a century ago, it operated trams as well. However, until a few years back, at Manori, BEST also operated a ferry service. It even had a conductor who, just like the bus conductors, would pull a thin rope attached to a bell to signal the boat's movement. Now, the BEST has discontinued that service, and a cooperative organisation run by the local villagers manages the ferries.
I first set foot on Manori beach in the mid-nineties when, along with my friends from the political science class, I was scouting for a picnic spot. For a guy like me, hailing from south Mumbai where beach meant Girgaon Chowpatty, discovering Manori was a revelation. Since then, I have visited this place countless times with family, friends, and colleagues.
As soon as you disembark from the boat at Manori Jetty, you find yourself in a different world, far removed from the city's hustle-bustle and pollution. The 2-kilometre distance from the jetty to Manori village is a feast for the eyes. The narrow road, flanked by coconut groves, showcases quaint fishing boats anchored along the shore, while seagulls gracefully hunt for their meals in the water, creating a truly special experience.
Upon entering the village, one encounters Goan-styled homes adorned with red Mangalorean tiles on their roofs, with holy crosses and pictures of Jesus Christ affixed to their doors. The small village is home to a mixed population of Hindu Kolis and Christian fishermen known as East Indians. It houses a temple and a church, with both communities coexisting peacefully. In one of the boats, I noticed a single frame depicting Lord Ganesh and Jesus Christ. During lunch or dinner time, the aroma of cooking pork wafts through the village's narrow streets.
After strolling down a few alleys, you stumble upon the picturesque Manori beach. At first glance, it evokes memories of the Anjuna or Vagator beaches of North Goa. While the southern part is rocky, the northern section is pristine and safe for swimming. Though the water may not be as crystal clear as Goan beaches, it's still the cleanest in Mumbai. Furthermore, it's one of the safest beaches in the city, as drowning incidents are rare compared to other beaches like Aksa and Juhu.
Unlike other beaches, there are hardly any vendors at Manori, except for a few selling ice-cream and peanuts. On the main village road, women peddle refreshing palm fruits, also known as ice-apples. While this beach doesn't offer any water sports, it's perfect for those seeking tranquility.
However, many locals and environmentalists are concerned these days. The government has plans to turn the entire area into a tourism hub, given that the famous Esselworld amusement park is just a stone's throw away. Additionally, a bridge linking Manori to the Marve jetty is in the works. This would eliminate the need for motorboats, making the island part of Mumbai's mainland. Such development is feared to strip the place of its charm.
(Bombayphile is published every Saturday where Jitendra Dixit writes about the past and present of Mumbai.)
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