Pav: Mumbai's Portugal Connect

The cube-shaped bread is called 'Pav' by the Portuguese and is prepared from Maida

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Vada-Pav, the signature fast food of Mumbai has come a long way. From being a hunger saviour of the working class, it has gone on to become a delicacy served during air travels and is sold across the world including Manhattan of New York City.

Although the “Pav” in the Vada-Pav is largely associated with its yellow-coloured, ball-shaped, spicy potato-filled partner, the former has relationships with other food items available in Mumbai as well. Pav was introduced by the Portuguese in Mumbai. The cube-shaped bread is called “Pav” by the Portuguese and is prepared from Maida (refined wheat flour). Although the Portuguese left Mumbai over three centuries ago, Pav still rules the city and has become an intrinsic ingredient of Mumbai’s food culture.

First-time visitors to Mumbai from north Indian cities like Delhi, Lucknow, Varanasi or Patna may be surprised to hear people ordering “samosa-pav” or “Bhajiya Pav” at food stalls. Samosa with a Pav? What kind of combination is this? They may ask. In the North, Samosa is eaten with Chhole, Matar or Chatni by making its Chaat. Some health-conscious people may also deride such a combination. Already the filling of Samosa is covered with Maida and the Pav over it makes a double dose of Maida, something which is not considered good health-wise. 

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Similarly, I have seen people getting surprised by the combination of Bhajiya-Pav. What one calls “Pakora” in north India is known as “Bhajiya” in Mumbai. North Indians might like to savour Pakoda with Chai or Chutney, but in Mumbai, Bhajiya gets sandwiched between a Pav cut from the middle. 

The next signature dish of Mumbai after Vada-Pav is also associated with Pav and that is known as “Pav-Bhaji”. The Bhaji is a mixture of smashed vegetables consisting of tomato, potato, capsicum and green peas. Both Vada-Pav and Pav Bhaji are relished by people from all communities and there are a few famous joints in Mumbai where people queue up to fetch these delicacies.

Pav in Mumbai goes with almost anything in Mumbai- vegetarian or non-vegetarian. People eat Pav with eggs like Anda-Pav, Bhurji-Pav, Omlet Pav or with meat like Bheja-Pav, Keema-Pav etc. The Maska-Pav served at the Irani restaurants is highly relished. Even Chinese food couldn’t escape the dominance of Pav in Mumbai. A snacks stall in Parel sells – “Manchrian-Pav.” Pav seems to be omnipresent in the city.

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