Bihu 2024: Mekhela Sador's Timeless Elegance Shines Bright In Assam's Festivities

The Mekhela Chador is more than just clothing for Assamese; it's a symbol of their culture passed down through generations that Assamese women proudly wear during religious rituals.

Mekhela Sador's Timeless Elegance Shines Bright In Assam's Festivities ( Image Source :Special Arrangements )

In the heart of Northeast India lies Assam, a land renowned for its vibrant festivals and rich cultural heritage. Among the many cherished traditions, the Mekhela Sador stands as a timeless emblem of Assamese identity and pride. Worn by women, this traditional garment holds significant importance, especially during festivals like Bihu and Durga Puja, where it assumes a central role in rituals and ceremonies. Bihu, the epitome of Assamese festivities, unfolds three times a year: Bohag Bihu in April, Kati Bihu in October, and Magh Bihu in January. Each Bihu festival carries its unique traditions and significance, with women adorning themselves in the Mekhela Sador to partake in the lively celebration of the harvest season through the traditional Bihu dance.

What Is Mekhela Sador?

The Mekhela Sador, also called Mekhela Chador is more than just a clothing for Assamese; it's a symbol of their culture passed down through generations. Assamese women wear it proudly during cultural events, religious rituals, and in their daily lives.

It is a two-piece dress worn by women in Assam. The bottom part, called the mekhela, is draped from the waist downwards. The top part, known as the Chador (pronounced: Sador), is a long piece of cloth. One end is tucked into the upper part of the mekhela, and the rest is draped around the chest and back. The other end is tucked into the belly after making a few pleats. Women usually wear a fitted blouse with the Mekhela Chador to complete the outfit.

From A Silk Thread To Full – Woven Dress:

Mekhela Chador represents the the distinct cultural identity of Assam. Its designs and weaving techniques are inspired by the natural beauty of the landscape. Crafting a pair of Mekhela Chador takes around 30 to 40 days.

Artisans in Assam use various types of silk and materials to create the beautiful Mekhela Chador, each adding its own texture and character to the final creation. Paat silk, mulberry silk, and Muga silk are the most commonly used materials.

"Muga culture is specific to Assam and is an integral part of the tradition and culture of that state. This silk is a wonderful gift of nature extracted from a species of insect not to be found anywhere in the world except in Assam," Dhiraj Deka, a designer from Assam told ABP Live.

The journey of a Mekhela Chador begins with the careful selection of high-quality silk threads, sourced from reputable silk farms or manufacturers. These threads undergo dyeing processes to achieve vibrant hues. Skilled weavers then intricately weave the silk threads on looms, creating characteristic patterns and textures. Optional embellishments like zari or embroidery may be added. The fabric is subsequently cut and stitched by skilled tailors to ensure a perfect fit and finish. 

"The Assamese Mekhela Chador is a masterpiece crafted from a variety of exquisite silks, and making it is a true masterpiece of art and heritage," Designer Risha Deka told ABP Live, adding, "Each Mekhela Chador undergoes thorough quality checks before being beautifully packaged for sale, showcasing exquisite craftsmanship and cultural significance in every piece."

Evolution Of Mekhela Sador:

Originally, women in Assam used to drape a single piece of cloth called the Riha around their bodies and heads. Over time, this evolved into the Mekhla Sador, now known as Mekhela Chador, reflecting Assam's rich textile traditions. To match the changing fashion trends, modern Mekhela Chador comes in various colours, designs, and fabrics, making their way into contemporary fashion on runways and red carpets.

Types Of Mekhela Sador: 

Mekhela Chador offers a versatile range of options, from silk to cotton, encompassing traditional to modern designs. "From intricate floral patterns to symbols steeped in mythology, every design tells a story—a story of resilience, of heritage, of a land that refuses to be forgotten," said Sanjukta Dutta, who has showcased her craftsmanship from Lakme Fashion Week to Milan Fashion Week 2024.

Types of Mekhla Chador available in the market today include:

• Silk Mekhela Chador: Ideal for weddings and formal occasions, made of silk fabric with intricate embroidery or zari work on the Chador. Available in a variety of colours, from bold to muted shades.
• Cotton Mekhla Chador: Perfect for casual wear and festivals, crafted from cotton fabric featuring traditional designs like King khap, Choti pati, Japi, and Miri Buta. Available in vibrant or earthy tones.
• Eri Silk Mekhla Chador: Made from soft and comfortable eri silk fabric, offering a wide range of colours and designs, from simple to elaborate.
• Muga Silk Mekhla Chador: Utilising lustrous golden muga silk fabric, known for its durability. Available in various colours and designs, blending traditional and modern styles.
• Printed Mekhla Chador: A popular choice for casual occasions, crafted from fabrics like cotton and silk featuring floral, geometric, or abstract prints. Available in bold or subtle shades.
• Embroidered Mekhla Chador: Suited for weddings and formal events, made of silk with intricate embroidery designs on the Chador. Available in traditional or contemporary styles.

The Price:

The pricing for different types of Mekhela Chador can vary based on several factors such as the type of silk used, intricacy of weaving, embroidery work, and overall craftsmanship. Generally, Muga silk is very expensive compared to other silk varieties like Eri silk, Pat or mulberry Silk, and Tassar Silk. Overall, prices can range from affordable options starting around ₹2000 to ₹5000 for simpler designs and materials, with premium ranges starting from INR 8K to 1 lakh. 

Symbol Of The Rich Cultural Heritage:

Mekhela Sador embodies centuries-old heritage and craftsmanship unique to Assamese culture.

Sanjukta Dutta said, "Passed down through generations, the art of weaving Mekhela Chador is a cherished tradition, kept alive by skilled weavers who infuse each garment with a piece of their soul. It symbolises the essence of Assamese womanhood - graceful, dignified, and resilient."

"For generations, Assamese women, irrespective of caste, creed, community, and status, have woven their family's garments, which shows the deep-rooted connection of this fabric within Assamese households. This tradition has empowered women across generations, showcasing the enduring strength of Assam's families," added Dhiraj Deka.

ALSO READ: Bihu 2024: Wishes, Messages And Greetings That You Can Share On This Festival Of Assam

Mekhla Sador And The Global Fashion Industry:

Mekhla Sador is gaining traction in the global fashion industry as its unique weaving techniques and intricate designs have captivated designers and fashion enthusiasts worldwide.

Sanjukta said, "Its versatility leads it to its integration into global fashion from runways to red carpets. It can be styled for various occasions, from formal events like weddings to everyday wear. Designers are blending traditional Assamese motifs with contemporary silhouettes, creating a fusion of old and new that appeals to a global audience."

The garment has made appearances in fashion shows and events globally, endorsed by celebrities and influencers, thus highlighting its cultural significance and potential in the fashion world.