(By Prof. Pankaj Arora, School of Fashion, World University of Design (WUD))
In recent years, the fashion landscape has undergone a remarkable transformation, embracing inclusivity and diversity with open arms. This shift towards gender-neutral clothing has not only redefined the way we dress but also serves as a striking reflection of society's evolving values. In India, this movement towards gender-neutral fashion is not merely a fleeting trend but rather a celebration of the country's rich cultural heritage, weaving together threads of tradition, flexibility, and inclusivity.
At the heart of India's gender-neutral traditional fashion lies the concept of adaptability. Traditional garments like the dhoti, kurta, anarkali, and saree transcend the boundaries of gender, offering a canvas for self-expression to individuals of all identities. The dhoti, once worn exclusively by men, has now become a symbol of flexibility, embraced by both men and women in various forms, from traditional drapes to contemporary interpretations like dhoti pants and skirts. Similarly, the kurta, with its timeless elegance and simple silhouette, embodies the essence of gender-neutral fashion in India. Worn by both men and women, its versatility reflects not only the fluidity of fashion but also the rich tapestry of Indian culture, where diversity is celebrated and cherished.
The Anarkali, drawing inspiration from the legendary Mughal princess, stands as a symbol of gender-neutral traditional fashion in India. Its flowing silhouette and intricate embellishments defy gender norms, providing a majestic and versatile option for individuals of any gender. In modern times, men have embraced the Anarkali as a fashion statement, especially at weddings. Its allure captivates attention and initiates discussions, representing the timeless elegance and cultural depth of Indian fashion. Throughout history, Indian fashion has showcased various gender-neutral garments. In the opulent Mughal era, attire like the 'angrakhas' became prominent, appreciated by both men and women for their flowing, tunic-like designs.
The saree, arguably one of the most iconic symbols of Indian traditional fashion, has also embraced gender-neutral styling in recent years. While traditionally associated with women, the saree has transcended gender norms, finding favour among individuals of all genders who appreciate its grace and versatility. By reimagining the saree in a gender-neutral context, designers pay homage to India's cultural heritage while challenging conventional notions of gender and identity.
India's gender-neutral traditional fashion is intricately intertwined with its rich textile heritage. From the exquisite weaves of Banarasi silk to the vibrant motifs of Kalamkari, Indian textiles are celebrated for their craftsmanship and artistry. Many traditional Indian textiles inherently possess a gender-neutral quality, featuring designs and patterns that resonate with people of all gender identities. By incorporating these textiles into gender-neutral clothing, designers not only preserve India's cultural legacy but also celebrate the diversity of its fashion landscape.
Beyond its aesthetic allure, India's gender-neutral traditional fashion holds a deeper significance as a form of cultural expression. For centuries, clothing in India has served as a mirror reflecting the country's identity, social fabric, and cultural heritage. In these modern times, Indian designers like Ritu Kumar, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Abraham & Thakore, Kallol Datta, Ujjawal Dubey (Antar-Agni), Anavila Misra, and many more are working on gender-neutral fashion while celebrating India's rich textile heritage.
India's gender-neutral traditional fashion is a testament to the country's rich cultural heritage and its unwavering commitment to diversity and inclusivity. From the adaptable designs of traditional garments to the intricate craftsmanship of indigenous textiles, India's fashion landscape is a vibrant tapestry of colours, patterns, and styles. As we continue to preserve and reinterpret this heritage, we not only celebrate India's cultural legacy but also pave the way for a more inclusive and diverse future in fashion.
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