New Delhi: Over 5000 years ago, during the Indus Valley Civilization, early forms of Indian jewellery were created. Since then, India has created incredibly distinctive designs that have distinguished its jewellery. Due to the country's varied topography, several ethnic groups developed regional jewellery in their own unique styles. Jewellery for Indian women serves several cultural and traditional purposes in addition to making them look beautiful.
To know more about the intricacies of Indian traditional jewellery, ABP Live sought the opinion of experts who talked about temple, Rajasthani, and Bengal jewellery and also shared the change in the choices that has led to the evolution of new styles.
The Intricacies Of Indian Temple Jewellry
The cultural legacy of the southern Indian states is greatly influenced by temple jewels, which is among the most artistic jewellery designs. These straightforward-yet-artful pieces of work, which are sculpted from gold and silver and embossed with representations of gods and goddesses from the temples in south India, have been making a comeback to the fashion scene.
In this regard, Dishi Somani, founder of DishiS Designer Jewellry said, "Indian Temple jewellery is characterized by its intricate designs and rich craftsmanship. It is traditionally crafted by skilled artisans using precious metals like gold and silver, and adorned with precious and semi-precious gemstones."
Each item of temple jewellery is meticulously created, which serves as its distinguishing feature. The pieces take their cues from primitive divine figures, temple spires, and deities in general. Temple jewellery is also known as nakshi jewels.
"What sets Temple Jewellery apart are its unique motifs inspired by Hindu deities. The designs often feature intricate carvings, filigree work, and elaborate detailing, reflecting the architectural beauty of ancient Indian temples. It is commonly worn during religious and festive occasions, and its historical significance adds to its cultural value and allure.", Dishi further added.
Additionally, Pratik Dugar, Director of Indian Gem & Jewellery Creationbally explained the effort that goes into the detailing while creating temple jewellery. He said, "The curvature, face, eyes has to be so immaculately designed to get the perfection. If ordinary jewellery takes 15-20 days then temple jewellery would take 2 months time."
Evolution Of Indian Traditionl Jewellery Over Time:
To meet the changing needs of each new generation, traditional Indian jewellery has experienced a remarkable transformation and has adopted modern styles while still maintaining its classic charm.
"From elaborate and heavy designs, it has shifted towards more lightweight and versatile pieces, appealing to the younger generation. Traditional motifs and techniques have been fused with modern aesthetics, resulting in innovative designs that suit the preferences of today's fashion-conscious individuals. Moreover, there has been a growing emphasis on customization, allowing individuals to personalize their jewellery according to their tastes and styles.", said Dishi
To this, Pratik also added, "Well there’s a shift no doubt, but still traditional jewellery will always be the integral part when it comes to wedding. There are few categories which still remains unchanged like bridal jewellery and solitaire rings for engagements. But yes, Gen-Z wants the jewellery in such a way that they can use it over the time and not only for the wedding day, so there’s has been a shift that way."
Craftsmanship Involved In Rajasthani Jewellery:
Jewellery Art of Rajasthan is a palatial mingling of illustrious craftsmanship, rich culture, and classic designs.
In this regard, Abhishek Kajaria, from Avama Jewellers said, "The tradition of wearing jewellery has bloomed in Rajasthan from ancient times. Jewels were displayed everywhere, right from their jewel-studded turbans to neckpieces, nose rings, bangles, armlets, belts, rings, and anklets. Even their swords and scabbards were heavily ornamented with precious jewels. Rajasthan has long been the land of royalty, grandeur and heritage."
Skilled artisans employ traditional techniques such as Kundan, Meenakari, and Jadau to create intricate pieces of art.
Dishi Somani then went on to explain how these techniques are employed with precision and patience to create the exquisite pieces depicting rich Rajasthani culture.
She said, "Kundan involves setting precious gemstones in gold foils, while Meenakari adds vibrant enamel work to the jewellery. Jadau is the meticulous process of embedding uncut diamonds and gemstones into delicate gold settings. The jewellery not only displays impeccable workmanship, but also narrates the tales of the region's history and traditions."
Spacialities Of Bengal Jewellery:
Bengal jewellery boasts its own distinctiveness with handmade gold jewellery which has a long and storied legacy of artistry in the State.
In this regard, Dishi said, "One of its specialities is the use of precious gemstones like coral, turquoise, and pearls, combined with gold creating a vibrant and colourful aesthetic. Additionally, there is also a special intricate technique of hand-beating gold into wafer-thin sheets which are then used to create stunning filigree designs, known as 'Jali work', where fine wires are twisted and interwoven to form intricate patterns."
"Bengal jewellery also showcases unique motifs inspired by nature, such as flowers, leaves, and birds, reflecting the region's lush landscapes.", added Dishi.
Pratik also spoke about this and said, "Even after the invention of machines which have taken over handcrafted pieces, Bengal still values its 'karigars' and takes pride in handmade jewellery. This makes Kolkata jewellery or Yellow jewellery popular in all parts of India and around the globe."