Every Indian region that offers weaves boasts a completely unique tapestry of handloom magic, with every thread telling a tale of tradition, artistry, and cultural background. It goes for sarees as well, whether they are Banarasi, Chanderi, or Kanchipuram, aka Kanjivaram sarees. A Kanchipuram (Kanjeevaram) saree is a traditional silk saree from the Kanchipuram region of Tamil Nadu. It's purity involves examining various aspects of the piece of 6 yards.

 

According to Sneha Yadav, who is a Fashion Analyst and NIFT Alumni, "Discerning a true Kanjivaram is like a symphony of senses. Some of the ways of identifying a pure Kanjivaram saree are touch, sound, a burning test, and so on. The tricky borders, a smooth drape, and weight speak of time-commemorated in it."


"A fake one will make a dull sound while rubbing, the zari will have a white thread instead of crimson, and it will not speak as well for itself. Look for easy, highly-priced silk, complicated zari work with a metallic sheen, and a distinct weight. Trusting your senses and being responsive to the details that exhibit real craftsmanship is the way to identify the finest Kanjiavaram saree," she added.


Ways To Determine The Purity Of Kanjeevaram:


Taniya Biswas, who is the Co-Founder of Suta said, "Kanjeevaram sarees are made of pure mulberry silk, renowned for its durability and weight. They are usually heavy due to the thick silk used in their weaving. One can feel the fabric and observe its texture, which should be smooth and luxurious. An authentic Kanjeevaram saree will showcase traditional motifs like peacock,temple designs or check beautifully. These intricate designs are woven into the fabric with precision." 



Here are three ways to help one determine the purity of a Kanjeevaram saree as suggested by Vishal Gourisaria, who is the Founder and Director of Straavi:

 

Silk Quality:


  • Texture: Pure Kanjeevaram sarees are made of high-quality silk, which has a soft and smooth texture. Run your fingers over the fabric to feel for a soft and luxurious touch.

  • Sheen: Authentic Kanjeevaram silk has a natural sheen that gives it a rich appearance. Hold the saree up to the light to check for a subtle glow on the surface of the fabric.


Zari Work:


  • Zari Quality: Kanjeevaram sarees are known for their intricate zari work, which is the metallic thread used to create elaborate patterns. Genuine zari is made of pure silver coated with gold. Look for the hallmark sign on the zari to ensure authenticity.

  • Detailing: Examine the zari work closely. Pure Kanjeevaram sarees feature detailed and fine zari weaving with precision. The motifs should be well-defined, and the zari should not tarnish easily.


Traditional Patterns And Designs:


  • Border and Pallu: Kanjeevaram sarees typically have a contrast border and a heavily designed pallu (the decorative end of the saree). The border and pallu are areas where the craftsmanship and authenticity of the saree are evident. Check for intricate and traditional designs that are characteristic of Kanjeevaram sarees.

  • Colour Fastness: Authentic Kanjeevaram sarees use high-quality dyes, and the colours should be vibrant and long-lasting. Check for any signs of bleeding or fading by rubbing a small portion of the saree with a white cloth.


"Some other ways that can help to identify a Kanjeevaram saree would be to check the silk mark label which is a government certified mark ensuring the authenticity of products and examining the gold or silver zari work," added Taniya Biswas.