Communal violence has cast a dark shadow over festivals like Ram Navami and Hanuman Jayanti in recent years. Although some cities in Maharashtra, Bihar and West Bengal saw clashes this year, Mumbai celebrated the festivals peacefully, except for a minor skirmish during the Ram Navami procession at Malwani. While Mumbai is famous for its ten-day Ganesha Utsav festival, the monkey God Hanuman is also incredibly popular. Thousands of devotees throng outside popular Hanuman temples every Saturday. In today’s column, let me take you on a tour of some of these temples.
One temple that I've been visiting since childhood is the Panchmukhi Hanuman temple at Bhuleshwar in South Mumbai. The temple is part of a cluster of temples in the locality known as the "Kashi of Mumbai." The temple houses a 5-foot-tall statue of Lord Hanuman with five heads, two facing south and the other three facing the other directions. According to folklore, Lord Hanuman assumed this five-headed form to rescue Rama and Laxmana when they were abducted by Ahiravana, Ravana’s brother, and taken to Patal Lok (Underworld). Although not much is known about the history of this temple at Bhuleshwar, locals believe that it could be over 300 years old, dating back to when the city was an archipelago of seven islands. The idol of Lord Hanuman was found in the sea by fishermen known as Kolis, who established it here.
About two kilometers away from Bhuleshwar is the Hanuman temple of Picket Road, surrounded by various public places like the Lokmanya Tilak Marg Police Station, the G.T. Hospital, the Small Causes Court, and St. Xavier's School. On Saturdays, the temple is crowded with policemen, lawyers, students, doctors, and relatives of patients, who pray side by side. The temple, established in 1860, was once surrounded by the sea, and people came here by boat. It is located on the ground floor of a multi-storeyed building and doesn’t have a Kalash (inverted cone) on its top. It's a popular spot for many people, including famous lawyer Ujjwal Nikam, who conducted several trials on behalf of the prosecution, like the 26/11 Mumbai attacks, the 1993 serial blast case, and the Gulshan Kumar murder case. On the day of the pronouncement of order by the court, he never forgets to bow his head here. Some Saturdays, the crowd is so massive that cops are deployed to manage it. One could often spot celebrities here.
The Albela Hanuman temple at Vadala, on the eastern side of Mumbai, is also famous. Although the temple is said to be 150 years old, the idol of Lord Hanuman installed here is much older. As per legends, a King found the idol in a nearby forest and was transporting it to another place for installation. But the vehicle carrying the idol got stuck when it reached this spot, and despite several attempts, there was no success in moving the idol. It was concluded that Lord Hanuman wanted to stay at that location. Hence, the temple was constructed at that spot. An interesting coincidence happened when the Gaud Saraswat Brahmin (GSB) community occupied a vacant plot opposite the Hanuman temple and constructed a Rama temple there. Now the idol of Lord Rama stands facing the idol of Lord Hanuman, who is his ardent devotee.
In the western suburb of Khar, there is a temple called the Ghanteswar Hanuman Temple, which is immensely popular among devotees. Unlike other Hindu temples, this temple stands out due to its unique feature of thousands of bells tied inside the premises. Constructed in 1960 by a devoted follower of Lord Hanuman, this temple has gained fame as a wish-fulfilling destination, and the multitude of bells is seen as evidence of this belief. As per tradition, if someone's wish is granted, they offer a bell to the temple. Due to the popularity of this temple, there are often long queues on Tuesdays and Saturdays.
Anjaneri, the temple located on the Nasik Trayambak road at Anjangad hill, is not in Mumbai but is often visited by Mumbaikars. Locals believe that it is the birthplace of Lord Hanuman, although there are other locations across India with similar claims. The temple houses a beautiful idol of baby Hanuman on the lap of his mother Anjani, situated atop the hill. To reach the temple, one must trek for approximately three hours, crossing three hillocks. For many devotees, a pilgrimage to Anjaneri is a perfect blend of adventure and devotion.
(Bombayphile is published every Saturday where Jitendra Dixit writes about the past and the present of Mumbai.)